Houseplants Published: 09 October 2011 Reprinted: Last edits:
Genus nidularium (lat.Nidularium) native to Brazil and belongs to the Bromeliad family. The genus includes up to 80 species. "Nidus" (lat.) - a nest. From this word nidularium got its name, tk. its inflorescences are located inside the outlet.
This is a herbaceous plant growing for more than one year, an epiphyte - it does not have a stem. Leaves are rigid, linear, serrated-prickly grow in dense rosette. A plant with a shortened stem, an inflorescence of spikes grows from the center of the rosette in the form of a head. Large sessile flowers with red stipules are densely arranged.
Home nidularium grows well in warm rooms with high air humidity. The plant is placed both in composition with others, and separately from everyone.
Briefly about growing
- Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
- Lighting: bright diffused light or partial shade. In winter, it is a bright sunny color. If necessary, artificial lighting can be used in winter.
- Temperature: in spring and summer - 20-24 ºC, in winter - 14-17 ºC.
- Watering: from spring to mid-autumn - when the top layer of the substrate dries up. Pour water in the morning and into the funnel of leaves. In winter, the plant is not watered, but sprayed, but if the room temperature is above 20 ºC, then in the morning you can pour water into the funnel.
- Air humidity: increased. It is recommended to spray nidularium several times a day and keep it on a pallet with wet expanded clay or pebbles.
- Top dressing: from May to September - monthly mineral fertilizer for bromeliads. If another fertilizer is used, then the dosage should be two times less than indicated in the instructions.
- Rest period: not pronounced.
- Transfer: once every 2-3 years. When transplanting, do not deepen the neck.
- Substrate: for epiphytic species: 3 parts of pine bark, one part of high-moor peat, chopped sphagnum and leaf land, half a part of humus soil and a handful of perlite and charcoal. For terrestrial species: 2 parts of leafy land, 1 part each of peat and humus land, half a part of sand and a little sod land, sphagnum, charcoal and coniferous bark.
- Reproduction: offspring.
- Pests: scale insects, mealybugs.
- Diseases: sunburn and dry tips on the leaves, lack of flowering due to improper care or maintenance conditions.
Read more about growing nidularium below.
Photo of nidularium
Caring for nidularium at home
Indoor nidularium loves bright lighting, but diffused - you need to shelter from direct sunlight. The plant grows well in partial shade and shade, but under such lighting it may not bloom. On the southern side, the plant should be shaded in the hottest time, and on the northern windows, the nidularium flower at home will grow well with proper care, but flowering may not occur, and the leaves may turn pale. The best location is considered to be windows with east and west orientation. In winter and autumn, the lighting should be good and the plant should not be shaded. If there is a lack of lighting, fluorescent lamps can be used - they are placed at a distance of half a meter above the plant and kept on for at least 8 hours a day.
Best of all, the nidularium houseplant develops at a moderate temperature: 21-24 ° C in summer and spring, 14-17 ° C in winter. For a short period, the plant can be in a room with a low air temperature.
Watering the nidularium
From early spring to mid-autumn (growing season), the home flower nidularium is watered after the top layer of the substrate has dried. In the morning, water is poured into the outlet funnel. In winter, the plant is not watered, but sprayed if the air temperature is below 20 ° C. If the air temperature is above 20 ° C, then from time to time in the morning you can pour a little warm water into the nidularium socket. The water should be soft and settled, and a few degrees above room temperature.
The nidularium flower loves high air humidity and grows best in humid greenhouses or terrariums. The plant needs to be sprayed several times a day, and in addition it is advisable to put it on a pallet with wet tracing paper or expanded clay, making sure that the bottom of the pot does not touch the water. It is necessary to regularly remove dust from the leaves of nidularium with a damp sponge or cloth, but it is not recommended to rub with wax for shine.
You need to fertilize the plant monthly from May to September. Top dressing is carried out with fertilizers for bromeliads. If you feed nidularium with fertilizers for other indoor flowers, then the fertilizer concentration must be halved. They are fed after watering the plant; the fertilizer is poured into the funnel of the leaf rosette. The nitrogen level in fertilizers should be low because its excess leads to the death of the nidularium plant.
Transplanted once every 2-3 years, if necessary. The neck of the nidularium should not be deepened, because the plant will begin to rot and die. Transplanted into a pot with drainage, which takes up at least a third of the space. The substrate for epiphytic species is mixed from 3 parts of crushed pine bark, 1 part of chopped sphagnum, 1 part of high moor peat, 1 part of leaf and half part of humus soil. You also need to add charcoal and perlite. Terrestrial species are planted in a mixture of 2 parts of leaf, 1 part of humus soil, 1 part of peat and 0.5 part of sand, with the addition of turf, charcoal, sphagnum and coniferous bark. They are planted in pots that are wider than tall.
Growing from seeds
Seeds are sown on a substrate of sphagnum with sand, or peat with sand. Before planting, the seeds of nidularium must be washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after which they are well dried. The temperature should be kept at 24 ° C, sprayed, ventilated. After two to three weeks, the seeds will germinate, and after a couple of months the sprouts dive into a substrate of 4 hours of peat, 2 hours of leafy soil and 1 hour of sod, and after another six months the seedlings are planted in different pots. In three or four years, with proper care, the indoor nidularium will bloom.
Reproduction by offspring
The plant dies off after flowering, and after that, plant regeneration buds appear at the base, which give many offspring. After one and a half to two months, roots and up to four leaves are formed. They, together with the roots, are detached and planted in containers with sphagnum or in a mixture of 3 parts of leaf soil and 1 part of pine bark and sand. You can mix one part of leaf, turf, humus land, one part of peat and 0.5 part of sand - it is also suitable. The container is covered with a jar or plastic wrap and kept at a temperature of 25 to 27 ° C. After the plants get stronger, they begin to look after them, like an adult nidularium.
Diseases and pests of nidularium
Spots on the leaves of nidularium. Sunburn can cause pale brown spots on the leaves. The plant must either be removed from direct sunlight, or diffused light must be created for it.
The tips of the nidularium leaves turn brown. Too dry air can cause leaf tips to brown. In the summer, the plant needs to be sprayed. Also, the cause of the brown tips of the leaves can be watering with hard water or its absence in the funnel.
Nidularium does not bloom. If the plant has never bloomed and died, then the reason may be waterlogging of the soil. If the plant has bloomed, then its death is quite natural.
Pests of nidularium. Mealybug and scale insects are the main pests of nidularium.
It lives in the forests of the Brazilian plains. Epiphytic type of nidularium. The plant has up to 16 leaves that grow from a funnel-shaped rosette. Bright green leaves, linear and wide, narrowed at the base and sharp at the end, finely serrated along the edge. They reach 70 cm in length and up to 4 cm in width. The straight peduncle is thin and straight. The flowers are expressed by low-flowered spikelets, which are collected in five to six pieces in a complex capitate inflorescence up to 8 cm long. The inflorescences of lemon-yellow color (turn green after flowering) grow up to 7 cm long and completely hide the sessile ears of five to six flowers. The length of the flowers is up to 3 cm. The sepals are half accrete, green in color with white petals up to 2 cm long. The flowering period is May-December.
Nidularium brilliant / Nidularium fulgens
This epiphytic species lives in the tropical rainforests of Brazil. Belt-shaped leaves are tightly arranged and assembled into a socket, 15-20 pieces each. The length of the leaves is up to 30 cm, the width is up to 3 cm. Smooth on top, spotted, bright green. The leaves are lighter below, with 4-centimeter, upward curved brown thorns growing along the edges. The central spines are smaller and turn fiery red before the flowering period. The flowers are purple-lilac.
This epiphytic plant grows in the Brazilian rain forests at elevations of 800 m above sea level. Multiple leaves grow in the spreading rosette of the plant. The length of the leaves is up to 60 cm, and the width is up to 5.5 cm. The leaves are rounded and sharp at the top, dark green above with a red tint; underneath a shade of dark beet, smooth with thorns along the edges. The inflorescence grows from a rosette and has up to 6 sessile ears of flowers, any of which is located in the axils of the inflorescence leaves (large, red, brown at the top, prickly at the edges), which are much higher than the spikelets. Flowers up to 6 cm long. Sepals glabrous, barely red or white, up to 3 cm long. The petals are fused, white. The flowering period is June-December.
Nidularium purpureum / Nidularium purpureum
Grows in Brazilian forests at an altitude of 800 m.This species differs from nidularium innocent the fact that the leaves are longer and narrower, and covered with white scales. The inflorescences are oval, wide, finely serrate at the edges, red-brown, much longer than the ears hiding in their axils. The length of the flowers reaches 5 cm. Keeled red sepals accreted by one third. Three-quarters fused petals, red, dull, grow up to 3 cm in length. March-July is the flowering period. The variety albiflorum petals are white.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the Bromeliad family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Indoor Plants Information
Sections: Bromeliads Houseplants Beautiful flowering Ornamental deciduous Plants on N
Cymbidium is an excellent representative of orchids. It is very often found in flower shops to create unforgettable bouquets. Recently, more and more new cymbidium hybrids have appeared, which are intended for home cultivation. As for leaving, it is not as simple as it seems at first glance, but if you find an approach to the flower, it will be able to please with its flowering and active growth. Cymbidium is widespread in subtropical forests.
Home care for adenium
Location and lighting
Adenium belongs to light-loving plants, so it is better to keep it on the windows on the south side of the house. But in the summer heat, the plant must be shaded, because despite the fact that he loves direct sunlight, they can burn his vulnerable spot - the trunk.
Since adenium is a representative of the hot desert, our climate with a temperature of 25-30 degrees in summer is quite suitable for its cultivation. During this period, adenium will be able to decorate any garden plot, and in winter a state of rest ensues. The ideal temperature for a plant during the dormant period is from 10 to 15 degrees, since with more cooling of the earth, it can die.
Water adenium regularly with settled water, not too low temperature, and only after the soil dries up. Do not over-water the plant. If adenium hibernates in a warm room, without falling into a state of dormancy, then water it when the soil is completely dry. Otherwise, there is no need to water the plant. Watering can be re-irrigated only upon exiting dormancy and at least on the tenth day after the first growth buds are found.
Adenium is unpretentious to air humidity conditions. But when it is actively growing, spraying its surface will not be superfluous. In this case, you should not touch the flowers in order to avoid the loss of their decorative qualities.
The soil for growing adenium should be breathable, loose, with an acidity close to neutral. Soil for adenium can be prepared with your own hands by mixing coarse sand with sheet and sod land in equal parts and with an admixture of charcoal. Crushed brick can be added to the substrate and more sod land can be taken if a sufficiently mature plant is transplanted. But if there is no time to prepare the mixture yourself, then ready-made soil mixture for cacti will do.
Top dressing and fertilizers
Both mineral and cactus fertilizers are suitable for feeding. The frequency of fertilization is once a month.
Adult adeniums are transplanted when needed. It is enough to replant young plants once a year. The root system increases in width as it grows, not in length. Given this feature, you should choose a wide, but also shallow pot for the plant.In addition, it is advisable to take a pot that is not dark in color, so that the soil does not overheat once again in the scorching sun.
Adenium is pruned in the spring when it begins to grow. Pruning is optional, but this procedure is necessary if there is a desire to turn the plant into something specific: in a tree (one trunk will turn out) or a bush (several trunks). In the first case, the adenium is cut off by no more than one third of the height, in the second, it must be cut even lower. And this applies to each of its branches. One pinch is enough for young plants.
What types can be grown at home
Biologists know hundreds of Medinilla species, but not all of them are suitable for indoor floriculture. The fact is that it is quite difficult to grow a tropical shrub at home. The following varieties are considered the most popular:
- Medinilla Magnificent - this plant has a self-explanatory name. A large shrub with dense dark leaves, it blooms luxuriantly and succulently. Inflorescences grow up to 30 cm in length. Flowers of a pale pink shade. There are several varieties of this species, the most popular are Trizor with blue flowers, Dolce Vita, red-colored White and dark pink Flamenco.
- Veinous Medinilla is distinguished by thin shoots and elongated leaves. Flowers are white, tubular.
- Medinilla Cuminga is a spreading, but low plant, semi-epiphyte. Corollas of deep violet-pink color, in length reach no more than 6 cm.
- Medinilla Yavanika is the most persistent, "adapted" species. It readily takes root and blooms actively even in the European climate. This species is easily distinguished from the rest by its bright purple flowers without bracts.
- Those who prefer to grow exotic flowers in terrariums should pay attention to the Sedum-leaved Medinilla. Modest size - only 17 cm in height, compensated by lush flowering. Inflorescences are bright pink, each flower up to 15 mm.
Attention! Liana-like species of Medinilla are often found in nature, but at home it is much easier to grow a shrub.
Species and varieties of bromeliads
Of the species of the genus Bromelia, only the bromeliad penguin (Bromelia pinguin) is grown in culture, which naturally occurs in Mexico, Ecuador, Venezuela and Costa Rica. This species, containing the biologically active enzyme penguinin, in nature forms large infructescences from oblong fruits.
However, among flower lovers, it is customary to call bromeliads not only representatives of the genus of the same name, but also plants belonging to other genera of the Bromeliads family.
The diverse Bromeliad family includes many amazing and decorative representatives:
- Puia Raimondia. This is the largest specimen. Its growth varies with flowering. At rest, it does not exceed 3-4 meters. During flowering from 9 to 10 meters
- Spanish Tilandsia. The smallest bromeliad. The epiphyte reaches a height of 1 meter. It blooms in bright red.
The genus of the same name includes more than 50 species. The most famous and decorative:
Reproduction of nidularium
Like all bromeliads, nidularium easily propagates by simply separating old plants that have formed colonies, separating individual daughter rosettes. The maternal rosette dies off after flowering, but the formed offspring develop very quickly.
You can separate sockets with at least 3-4 leaves and their own root system. After planting, according to the general rules, the daughter rosettes of the nidularium are kept in heat, at a temperature of about 27 degrees, under a hood or glass, gradually accustoming them to the usual conditions of care after the start of growth.
This bromeliad can be grown from seeds if desired, but they are rarely found commercially. Seeds of nidularium are etched in a solution of potassium permanganate. Sowing is carried out in a sandy peat substrate or crushed moss, under glass or film. At a temperature of about 23 degrees, with frequent spraying or airing, the seedlings are grown for 2–3 months and dive into large flat containers.
They are transferred to individual containers only when they get stronger, on average after 6-8 months. The flowering of nidularia should be expected only from the fourth year.